Fashion has always relied on symbols. Beyond garments and accessories, certain objects come to embody the creative vision of a designer, acquiring a significance that extends far beyond their material form. These personal talismans often become part of a maison’s identity, carrying memories, rituals, and stories across generations. When translated into fragrance, they offer a new way of preserving creative heritage.
“Fashion fades, style is eternal,” remarked Yves Saint Laurent. The philosophy resonates not only through his couture but also through the personal objects that accompanied his creative journey, becoming enduring symbols of his artistic universe. Can a treasured piece of jewellery be reimagined as an olfactory signature?
Yves Saint Laurent Beauté answers this question with COEUR, the latest creation in Le Vestiaire des Parfums collection. The fragrance pays tribute to one of the couturier’s most intimate possessions: the celebrated Coeur fétiche, a heart-shaped jewel designed by Roger Scemama that accompanied Yves Saint Laurent throughout his career.
Created for the opening of the Maison in Rue Spontini, the jewel became a ritual object for every couture presentation. Delivered before each runway show and worn by the designer’s favourite model, it remained a constant presence until his final collection. Unlike the jewellery created for the runway, the original piece occupied a private place in Yves Saint Laurent’s apartment on Rue de Babylone, reflecting its deeply personal significance.
Master perfumer Daniela Andrier translates this emblem into an amber fragrance that deliberately departs from traditional interpretations of the genre. Instead of relying solely on warmth and sensuality, COEUR explores contrast through an unexpected dialogue between luminous aldehydes and a contemporary red amber accord.
The composition creates a striking interplay between opposing sensations. The radiant freshness of aldehydes introduces a cool metallic clarity that cuts through the resinous richness of amber, producing an architectural structure uncommon in classic amber fragrances. This tension mirrors the original jewel itself, where brilliant red stones were framed by shimmering metallic settings.
According to Daniela Andrier, the amber accord expresses the magnetic and provocative character of the talisman, while the contrasting aldehydes introduce a distinctive brightness that transforms the fragrance into something both sensual and unexpected.
As part of Le Vestiaire des Parfums, COEUR continues Yves Saint Laurent Beauté’s exploration of the House’s creative heritage, translating iconic materials, garments, and personal symbols into contemporary olfactory compositions. In this latest interpretation, one of Yves Saint Laurent’s most treasured possessions evolves from an object of adornment into a fragrance that captures both the emotion and artistic spirit associated with its remarkable history.
